Costa Rica has a way of working itself into your heart – and staying there. This was my third trip to this small but staggeringly rich country, and somehow, it still managed to surprise and delight me.
In just 10 days, I photographed hundreds of birds, traveled with a passionate group of bird photographers from all over the United States, and was reminded once again why Costa Rica is one of the most extraordinary destinations on earth for nature lovers.
Face to face with a king vulture: a striking study in color, texture, and intensity.
Despite its compact size (roughly the same as West Virginia), Costa Rica is one of the most biodiverse countries in the world, home to more than 900 species of birds, including more than 90 endemics. The wildlife doesn’t stop at feathers, either – you’ll find sloths, howler monkeys, tree frogs, and lush flora in every imaginable shade of green. It’s no wonder this place draws in wildlife photographers and birders from every corner of the globe.
Getting there is simple. From Hilton Head or Bluffton, it’s a short drive to Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport, where a quick connection in Atlanta gets you to San José, Costa Rica’s capital, in just a few hours. We kicked off our trip at the Hotel Bougainvillea, a peaceful garden oasis (with a killer breakfast buffet) just outside the city – a great spot to stay overnight before you head off to your adventure.
The crown jewel: A resplendent quetzal rests quiet
This journey was organized by Nancy Ellwood, an award-winning nature photographer and owner of Nature’s Portal, a Florida-based company specializing in bird photography outings and small group tours. Nancy assembled a group of six bird photographers, each with their style, story, and spark, and it was a joy to travel with fellow creatives who shared a deep appreciation for the art of waiting quietly, watching closely, and celebrating the thrill of discovery.
Guiding us throughout the trip was Diego Quesada, the incredibly knowledgeable birder, deeply respected by his peers of Birding Experiences. Diego is Costa Rican, with years of guiding under his belt, and what seems like a sixth sense for where birds were hiding.
Every day in Costa Rica brought something astonishing – not in that scripted, predictable way, but in those unexpected moments that make nature feel like magic. One morning, a few of us gathered at the edge of the forest just as morning was starting – and there he was: a resplendent quetzal, perched with quiet majesty, his long, iridescent tail feathers drifting like silk ribbons in the wind. We stood frozen, not just clicking shutters, but holding our breath, each of us silently aware we were witnessing something sacred.
The iconic red-eyed tree frog clings to a mossy branch with bold, whimsical confidence.
That same sense of wonder followed us through the trip. To find the elusive potoo, we ventured down a narrow, rutted dirt road so cloaked in darkness it felt like we were entering another world. Diego, our guide, had seen a potoo along that route before and trusted his instincts. Sure enough, perched on a bare snag, nearly indistinguishable from the branch itself, sat the bird – eyes half-lidded, its camouflage so convincing it felt like part of the tree had come to life.
At Maguengue, the trees erupted with the chatter of parrots, while high in the branches above us, toucanettes fed their young – a flash of motion, a flutter of wings, and then the slow, deliberate offering of fruit. Nearby, a female honeycreeper darted from perch to perch, feeding her fledgling with quiet urgency and motherly care – a reminder that even the smallest creatures carry great responsibility.
Perfectly content: A three-toed sloth curled into a leaf hammock high in the canopy.
Later in the week, we looked skyward to catch a king vulture gliding overhead – enormous, regal, its wings casting a shadow that was as big as a small plane (or so it seemed) It wasn’t the first vulture we’d seen, but it was the one that made us all stop and whisper, “There.”
And then, of course, there were the sloths. One lounged like a curled-up comma in a tree, perfectly content, radiating the kind of slow joy we all secretly crave. It barely moved, yet somehow said everything.
Portrait of a crested chachalaca, with its red throat pouch and sharp gaze on full display.
And the hummingbirds – dozens of them – zipped through the air like living jewels, wings whirring like applause. They hovered near feeders, danced between blossoms, and sometimes seemed to pose mid-flight just long enough for one perfect shot.
These weren’t just birds; they were moments. And Costa Rica, with its stillness and its symphony of sound, offered them freely to anyone willing to pause, look up, and listen.
What I love most about Costa Rica, beyond the abundance of wildlife, is its soul. The national motto, “Pura Vida,” is more than a phrase – it’s a lifestyle. It means “pure life,” but it’s also a greeting, a goodbye, a thank you, and a philosophy. It’s a way of seeing the world with gratitude, ease, and open-heartedness.
A keel-billed toucan gives a curious look, showcasing its vivid, rainbow-colored bill.
Costa Rica has no army. In 1948, the country abolished its military and redirected its focus toward education, healthcare, and peace – and you can feel it. People are kind. The environment is treasured. And visitors are welcomed like friends. Seriously.
This trip reminded me why I keep coming back. Costa Rica offers more than great birding – it offers connection. With nature, with people, with something quieter and deeper than what most of us get in our day-to-day lives.
So, if you’re longing to unplug and reconnect – bring your camera, your binoculars, and your sense of wonder. Costa Rica is waiting.
A lone female honeycreeper scouts for breakfast atop a weathered stump in lush greenery.
Birding Resources for Your Costa Rican Journey
Trip Coordinator: Nancy Ellwood of Nature’s Portal, expert-led nature photography adventures.
Local Guide: Diego Quesada of Birding Experiences, Costa Rica’s trusted birding guide and wildlife expert.
Lodging Highlights:
• Arenal Observatory Lodge, with trails winding through rainforest and a volcano looming in the distance.
• Maguengue Ecolodge, a quiet gem nestled along a river, rich with biodiversity.
• Hotel Quelitales, perched in the hills with feeders that drew hummingbirds like magnets.
• Caño Negro Natural Lodge, located on the edge of the renowned Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge, offering comfortable accommodations amidst lush tropical gardens.
• And my personal favorite, Savegre Lodge and Spa, where flower-filled gardens and a river running through the property, complete with benches to sit on and rest, make for breathtaking quetzal sightings and peaceful afternoons.
